Feeling Dry?

Here at Brooklyn Herborium, we do not craft a skin care regimen (and its specific rituals) based on skin “typing” such as oily, normal, or dry. We find that when you look at it that way, you become controlling and try to make the skin do something that it doesn’t naturally want to do. Control doesn’t lead to beautiful vibrant skin, just skin that is “under control.” Instead, we embrace the skin’s natural ability to do what it needs to do for itself and support that by giving it what it needs to function optimally.

If the skin is not functioning optimally, we use the symptoms to determine what the body needs in order to transition to a place where it can function beautifully on its own, with or without the support of our beautifully made products.

Is there congestion such as hardened blackheads and dino-skin?

These are signs of dehydration.

Loosen up and move out the impacted debris by oil cleansing a few times a week at night with NO EVIL—making sure to press your steamy washcloth to your skin before you gently wipe the oil away. (You may need to do this more often if you are using a drying makeup). It is helpful for one of those oil cleansing sessions to be over steam. Go to bed without moisturizing.
In the morning, make sure to have an ample amount of water in your Moisture Duo. This means maybe spraying 6 pumps of Mineral Mist into your Nourish & Replenish instead of the usual 5 for 2-3 weeks. It will “soak in” more, which makes it feel less oily if you are used to oil, but that’s what your skin needs when you are dehydrated. You may also dab 1-2 drops of NO EVIL over the areas that tend towards dehydration before you go out on bitter cold days.

Is your skin red with irritated patches that feel sort-of itchy maybe even “wet” or a mottled texture?

These are signs of stagnation.

Clear out and disperse the stagnation with our Vita-C Ten Minute Dry Serum — Mix 1/8 tsp of the Dry power with 1/8 tsp warm water to make a paste. Pat the paste directly on the mottled areas. It will tingle a bit. It is supposed to. Add a little more water to the mix and keep patting into the skin. The more you add water and pat, the more it keeps working and you will feel it. Wipe off the whole thing with a warm, wet washcloth. You can follow with a clay mask if desired, but you will feel dry. Do not use oils or moisturizers on your skin for 12-24 hours after the dry serum, even if you feel “dry.” The point is that we are trying to encourage the oil glands to step up their game and make more oil.
In the morning, make sure that you keep to the 3 drops Nourish & Replenish + 5 sprays Mineral Mist. Don’t keep edging towards more and more oil—I know it FEELS good, but too much can create an imbalance.
Cut down on your use of oil cleansing. 1-2 times a week is ample and if you get little white bumps, you may want to use Cow Fart Juice instead of NO EVIL. Use Integrity Biome as your cleanser instead of Sow Your Wild Oats a couple times a week.

Does your skin alternate between being rough and dull and shiny?

These are signs that you are stuck in a control cycle.

Stop moisturizing at night. You may need to work your way there, taking out the nightly moisturizer one night at a time, starting with the evenings you oil cleanse.
In the morning, flush your skin with water a few times and then use 3 drops of Nourish & Replenish oil. Spray 5 pumps of Mineral Mist directly into the oil and apply as you would a moisturizer.
This control pattern will usually even itself out in about 3 weeks.
Remember, too, that our skin responds to the weather…and when it is cold outside and you’ve been out without a scarf or face mask to cover you it WILL get dried out. From our point of view, it may be more comfortable (and beautiful) in the long run if you sit with the discomfort and allow your skin to remake its own moisture than to try to keep giving it more and more moisturizer or cover it with a rich balm.

Does your skin feel soft and moist enough, but when you look at it closely, there are fine lines, cross-hatches, and/or deep ravines?

These are signs that your skin is experiencing glycation.

Glycation occurs at our body’s innermost levels when sugars bond with proteins, making them unstable and unable to rebuild well. There is no simple answer on how to reverse this, though giving the skin what it needs to function well and reducing the incidences of further damage are some good first steps. If you need guidance, schedule an appointment with one of our specialists.
Internally, it is important to address how the body breaks down and builds up proteins as well as limit the harmful effects of sugar. This means living in metabolic harmony by creating balanced menus, not eating between meals, and getting appropriate sleep at the right time.
Externally, start with protection. We understand that everyone wants to believe that we can just slather on sunscreen and be protected, but unfortunately, preventing sunburn and blocking the UVB rays is not enough. Protect the integrity of your skin by not using harsh exfoliants and wearing protective clothing as an actual shield against the elements.
In addition, you can help your skin find its way–building structural integrity–without tearing down what’s already there with regular use of Integrity Biome Mask. Measure 1 tsp into a bowl and add 1 tsp super-hot water. Stir and let sit for a minute. Apply to face and leave on for ten minutes. Remove with a damp towel. (P.S. Having a healthy terrain is also a requirement for a flourishing microbiome!)

Does your skin feel stretched out, tight, and hot? Are there flakes?

These are signs there may be a cellular communication problem.

This type of irritation and “dryness” has nothing to do with your moisture levels and no amount of moisturizer will “fix” it.
The most important thing to do is to increase both your internal and transdermal mineral absorption. This would include eating more cooked veggies as well as proper use of your Mineral Mist.
Using one of our three clay masks once a week is highly recommended. 2 tsp of clay mask + 3 tsp water
- If you tend towards dehydration (see above) put the mask over a thin layer of NO EVIL, Nourish & Replenish, Seeds of Change, or Cow Fart Juice.
- If you tend towards stagnation, do not use oils (see above) – you may however, mix 1/8 tsp honey with 3 tsp warm water to mix with 2 tsp of clay.

When you touch your skin from the outside, does it seem moist and buoyant, but it feels a little tight (from the inside) when you smile?

These are signs that your skin is firm. How lovely!

Sometimes, it takes a little time to get used to having “balanced,” firm skin; Healthy, functional skin feels like the skin of your inner arm. It should not always feel like you just put oil on it!
You may have have gotten used to a very overly-moisturized, artificially dewy look and feeling that is not really real or healthy. (And, in real life, doesn’t really look vibrant) Look in the mirror—you look great!
If your skin is feeling overly tight and you are massaging your face with a tool (such as gua sha), you may be breaking down and contouring too often or too firmly. Too firm is not necessarily a good thing, as it could mean that you are damaging the basket-like matrix of collagen that gives the skin supple resilience and instead rebuilding with the less desirable ladder shape that comes from it trying to repair quickly before the next assault. When we utilize The Contour Technique monthly, the goal is “slightly excited, slightly nervous” not scared!

Still Don't Know?

Holistic Methods may not have the same cookie-cutter instructions such as “if it’s dry, oil it up” or “any time you feel dry you should…” You need to be a little more savvy, more willing to look deeper and ask “why?”

Sometimes, even if you are willing to look, it is hard to be sure and confident in your assessment–especially if you have been coming at it from a different direction for years. At Brooklyn Herborium, we have a lovely staff of highly-skilled Aestheticians and knowledgeable Holistic Skin Care Specialists who are able to help you on your journey. Book an appointment.